Under and over stitching machine



Sept. 5, 1944 V. NAFTALI UNDER AND OVER STITCHING MACHINE Filed Sept.20, 1940 2 Sheets-Sheet l QMQN QM m TEE

INVENTOR' VALENTINE NAE'TALI 5Y yyg a? K ATTORNEY Sept. 5, 1944. v.NAFTALl UNDER AND OVER STITCHING MACHINE Filed Sept. 20, 1940 2Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR VALENTINE NAFTALI BY ATTORNEY Patented Sept. 5,1944 UNDER AND OVER STITCHING MACHINE Valentine Naftali, Pelham Manor,N. Y., assignor to American Machine and Foundry Company, a corporationof New Jersey Application September 20, 1940, Serial No. 357,532 '7Claims. (01. 112 -173) This invention relates to improvements in sewingmachines, particularly for stitching neckties and the like, or forapplying a decorative stitch to afabric.

One of the objects of the invention is to produce a so-called runningstitch of the type which provides a series of spaced stitches resembling,hand stitches in appearance and resiliency.

A further object of the invention is the providing of new and simplifiedmeans for producing a stitch of the type made by the machine disclosedin the patent to Naftali et al., Reissue No. 19,653.

An additional object of the invention is to provide means for making adecorative stitch of' this general type, the visible portions of whichare at a slant to the stitch line.

Another object is to provide improved means for joining together anecktie lining and fabric by means of a coiled spiral needle insertingaresilient stitch.

A further object of the invention is to provide an improved type ofstitch which will have more resiliency-than found in the ordinary slipstitch used in sewing necktie fabrics together.

Another object is to provide a mechanism which is of relatively simpleconstruction to more rapidly form running stitches.

An additional object isto provide a mechanism for making a stitch whichis located between the edges of the fabrics sewn by means of acylindrical helical needle.

With these and other objects not specifically mentioned in View, theinvention consists of certain constructions hereinafter described andthen pointed out in the claims hereunto appended.

same;

Figure 3 is an enlarged detail View showing the tie material, lining andthe spiral needle;

Figure 4 is a detail View of the material clamp bar provided with rackteeth of the same pitch as the spiral of the needle; and

Figure is 'a showing of the tie material and lining stitched together. I

Referring to the drawings, the machine con-' sists of a work table II]supported by end frames II, table II) being provided with a longitudinalaperture I2 adapted to receive a revolving spiral needle I3 having aneye I4 in its leading pointed end. The end of th spiral needle I3,opposite to eye I4, is attached to a threaded rod I5 (Figures 1 and 1a).The threads of rod I5 intermesh'with the threads formed in bushings 3|.Bushings 3| are removably mounted in stationary bearings I6 and may bereplaced with other bushings having threads of a different pitch inorder to accommodate a different spiral needle rod, which rod will beadvanced at a faster or slower rate depending on the pitch of thethreads on said rod.

A rotating gear I! is provided between bearings I6 and bushings 3| forturning rod I5 clockwise and counterclockwise. A hole I8 is formed inthe central portion of gear II for receiving rod I5. Formed in said holeI8 of gear H are two opposed keys 32 which slide in correspondingkeyways 33 cut in each side of rod I5. Hole I8 is of sufficientlargeness to allow the threads of rod I5 to freely pass through hole I3without coming into contact with the gear I 'l.

A longitudinal slot I9 is provided in table I0 to receive the tiematerial T and lining L to be stitched and a bar 20 having rack teeth 2i(Figure 4) of the same pitch as the spiral of needle I3 to hold thematerials in place. Although a bar is shown as the member used to forceand hold the tie fabrics in the aperture, many other suitable means,such as a rod, tongue, plate, etc., could also be used to accomplishthis result. The bar 20 is pivotally mounted on a stud 22 carried by abracket 23 (Figure 1) attached to table I0,

so that it can be lifted from the Work at the comspect to the lining L.A pair of clamp bars 21 are attached to arms 28' in such a way as toswing downwardly to clamp the tie material and lining against thesurface 24 to hold the same in position during the sewing operation.Arms 28 are fastened to rods 29, which in turn are supported by brackets30, which brackets 30 are connected to table I0 by suitable means.

The operation of the machine can be briefly described as follows:

With the spiral needle I3 in a withdrawn position and both clamps Z! andbar 26 raised, a lining L is inserted into the depressed surface 24which conforms to the shape of the tapered lining. The material T isthen placed on top of the lining L and against the edge 25 of guideplate 25which conforms to the outline of the tie material. When the tiematerial T and lining L are thus in position overlying slot IS, the

bar 20 is lowered to force the fabrics into aperture l2. Clamp bars 21are then lowered to hold the tie materials T and lining L in positionduring the sewing operation. It may, however, be desirable at times toreverse this order to first lower the clamp bars 21 and then lower bar20 into the aperture. is then rotated by means of keys 32 sliding inkeyways .33 and forwarded by means of the threads of rod and bushings 3|intermeshing with one another so that it will screw itself through theaperture I2 and through the slanting grooves formed between the teeth ofbar making a stitch each time the needle passes through the tie andlining material. Upon reaching the end of lining L the rotating needleis stopped and the loose end of the thread is pulled through eye M. Theneedle rotation is then reversed so as to cause the needle to retreatand unwind itself from the stitched work. The stitch produced will be anunder and over running slip stitch S, somewhat diagonal with respect tothe stitch line, as seen in Figure 5.

Due to different type materials used in tie manufacturing, it maysometimes be desirable to thread the needle after it has passed throughthe t e fabrics so that the thread will be inserted into the fabricswhen the needle is being withdrawn. Although this needle has been shownas used to sew neckties, it may also be used to form decorativestitching on a wide variety of other articles such as gloves, handbags,wallets, etc. The stitch resembles very closely stitches which have beenmade by hand.

It is to be understood that the form of this invention, herewith shownand described, is to be taken as a preferred example of the same, andthat various changes in the shape, size and arrangement of parts may beresorted to, without departing from the spirit of this invention, or thescope of the sub-joined claims.

What is claimed is:

1. In a necktie sewing machine, the combination with a spiral needlehaving an eye near its The threaded spiral needle dle, and mechanism forrotating and. forwarding said needle through said fabrics to sew thefabrics together with a slip stitch while held in position by said meansand members.

4. In a sewing machine, a support having an elongated slot therein,means on said support for positioning a pair of superposed fabricmaterials thereon and over said slot with one material overhanging theother, a toothed rack bar carried by said support and movable into saidslot for holding an elongated bight of said materials therein, a spiralneedle disposed in said pointed end, an elongated member having atubular opening with a slot extending along the length thereof andaligned with the axis of said needle, a bar for inserting the tiematerials into said slotted tubular opening, said bar having rack teethof the same pitch as the spiral of the needle for holding the portion ofthe fabrics to be stitched in the path of said needle and mechanism toimpart rotating and forwarding movement to the spiral needle to pass thepointed end of said needle through the spaces between said teeth to sewthe tie fabrics together.

2. In a necktie sewing machine, the combination with a spiral needlehaving an eye near its pointed end, a table, said table having anaperture formed therein for supporting the spiral needle, a barassociated with said table for pos tion ng necktie material with respectto said needle in said aperture, and mechanism for rotating andforwarding the pointed end of said spiral needle through said necktiematerial to sew the same with a slip stitch.

3. In a necktie sewing machine, the combination with a support having aslot for insertion of necktie fabrics, guides for properly locating thefabrics over said slot, means for inserting said fabrics into said slot,spaced opposed members positioned on each side of said slot for holdingthe tie fabrics in place, a rotary spiral neesupport beneath said slotwith the convolutions thereof movable between the teeth of said bar, andmechanism operatively associated with said needle for rotating andadvancing same through said bight of the materials.

. '5. In a necktie sewing machine, an elongated member having a materialsupporting surface and having a slot extending along the length thereofand opening into said supporting surface, a spiral needle having an eyenear its pointed end and movably supported by said elon gated memberbeneath said slot and with its axis aligned therewith, a bar having rackteeth carried by said member with the teeth of the same spacing as thepitch of the spiral needle into said supporting surface, a spiral needlehaving an eye near its pointed end and movably supported by saidelongated member beneath said slot and with its axis alinged therewith,said member having an aperture through which said needle is movableaxially, a bar having rack teeth carried by said member with the teethof the same spacing as the pitch of the spiral needle and operative forinserting the portion of the materials to be stitched together into saidslot, and mechanism operatively associated with said needle forimparting rotating and forwarding movement thereto to pass the needlebetween said rack teeth and through said tie materials to sew sametogether.

7. A method of making neckties which consists in positioning a liningblank, placing the overlapped longitudinal edges of a necktie blankfolded inside out along substantially the longitudinal center line ofsaid lining blank, sewing said blanks together by a single thread withthe stitches angularly arranged with respect to the longitudinal centerline of said lining blank, the thread extending at an angle to saidcenter line across the exterior face ofthe outer fabric edge and thencethrough the fabric edges and through the lining, and extending at anangle to said center line across the face of the lining from which itemerges and thence through the lining and fabric edges to the exteriorface of the exterior fabric edge to form a series of stitches which areangularly arranged with respect to the longitudinal center line of thelining, and

VALENTINE NAFTALI.

